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Nuisance growth guide

Red Slime (Cyanobacteria)

Red slime is not true algae. It is cyanobacteria, a bacteria that forms slimy mats where flow is weak and waste builds up. It is most common in reef tanks, but freshwater tanks get it too, where it is called blue-green algae. Remove it by hand, then fix the flow, light, and feeding habits behind it.

Reef aquarium with dark red cyanobacteria mats on the sand and rocks, with a powerhead, baster and test vials beside the tank
Symptoms

Is it red slime or something else?

Cyano looks and behaves differently from algae. Check these signs first.

  • Slimy sheets: a dark red, maroon, or purple film on sand, rock, or glass. It can also be green, brown, or nearly black.
  • Peels off easily: it lifts away in a thin sheet. Hair algae is stringy and anchored instead.
  • Trapped bubbles: gas bubbles get caught in the mat under the lights, and pieces may float off late in the day.
  • Starts in slow spots: corners, behind rock, and on sand where debris settles. Siphoned patches return in a day or two.
  • Musty smell: a strong earthy odor, especially in freshwater tanks.

In freshwater, cyano is a blue-green or dark green slimy coat on gravel, plants, and decor. The fixes are the same, plus making sure plants are not starving for nutrients.

  • Brown diatoms: a dusty brown film, common in new tanks. It wipes off like powder.
  • Dinoflagellates (reef): brown, snotty strands full of bubbles, often when nitrate and phosphate test near zero. They need a different plan, so bring a photo if unsure.
  • Coralline algae: a hard pink or purple crust that does not wipe off. It is healthy. Leave it.
What to test first

Find the fuel before you treat.

Cyano is a sign that something in the tank is off. These checks point to what.

Check
What you are looking for
If it is off
Nitrate and phosphate Test both on the same day.
High readings feed cyano. It can also take over when nitrate hits zero while phosphate stays high.
Feed less and improve export. In a reef, lower nutrients gradually; corals need some.
Flow Where did the mats start?
Corners and spots where debris settles mean water is not moving enough there.
Aim or add a powerhead for gentle movement across the sand.
Light schedule Hours and window light.
Long light hours, direct sun, or a recent jump in intensity.
Use a timer, block sunlight, and keep the schedule the same every day.
Mechanical filtration Socks, floss, sponges, skimmer.
Packed media holds rotting waste. A skimmer making little dark skimmate is not removing much.
Change or rinse mechanical media, then clean and adjust the skimmer.
Source water Tap or RO/DI.
Tap water can carry phosphate and nitrate. Worn RO/DI cartridges let them through.
For reef tanks, a TDS meter on RO/DI output should read at or near zero.
Likely causes

What lets red slime take hold?

Most outbreaks are two or three of these at once.

Flow

Dead spots

Where water barely moves, debris settles and breaks down. Cyano almost always starts there.

Feeding

Too much food and waste

Uneaten food, frozen-food juice, and a heavy fish load add more nutrients than the tank can remove.

Maintenance

Dirty mechanical media

Socks, floss, and sponges left too long break trapped waste down and release it back into the water.

Export

Weak skimming or few water changes

A poorly adjusted skimmer or skipped water changes let organics build up week after week.

Light

Long or uneven lighting

Extra hours, window sun, or a sudden jump in intensity can tip the balance toward cyano.

Source water

Nutrients in new water

Untreated tap water or spent RO/DI cartridges add phosphate and nitrate with every top-off.

What to do today

Remove it, then starve it.

Work in order. Expect it to fade over one to three weeks, not overnight.

1
Siphon

Siphon the mats out during a water change.

Siphon the sand and use a turkey baster on rock. Removing it takes its nutrients out too.

2
Filter

Swap the mechanical media right after.

Fresh socks or floss catch loose pieces before they settle. Change them again in a few days.

3
Flow

Fix the dead spot.

Aim a powerhead at the problem area. You want gentle movement across the sand, not a sandstorm.

4
Feed

Feed smaller portions.

Feed what fish eat in a minute or two. Thaw frozen food and pour off the liquid first.

5
Light

Put the lights on a timer.

Same schedule every day, no direct sun, and no sudden jumps in hours or intensity.

6
Track

Test and log weekly.

Log nitrate and phosphate to see if your changes work. See tracking parameters.

What to avoid

Mistakes that bring it back.

Quick fixes that skip the cause usually mean the mats return.

Helpful supplies

Store departments that help.

Pick tools that fix flow and export, not a bottle that hides the symptom.

Testing

Nitrate and phosphate tests

Show where nutrients stand. Reef tanks need a low-range phosphate test.

View testing
Flow

Powerheads and wave makers

Clear dead spots and keep debris moving toward the filter.

View wave makers
Filtration

Filter socks, floss, and media

Fresh mechanical media catches loose cyano and waste during an outbreak.

View filtration
Export

Protein skimmers

A well-sized, adjusted skimmer removes organics before they become nitrate and phosphate.

View protein skimmers
Source water

RO/DI units and cartridges

Clean top-off and change water stops you adding nutrients every week.

View R-O
Maintenance

Siphons and gravel vacs

The simplest cyano tool: lift mats out during every water change.

Shop maintenance

When to bring a water sample or call

If cyano keeps returning after two or three weeks of steady fixes, spreads onto corals, or fish breathe hard, bring a fresh water sample to the store with your tank size, livestock list, and recent changes. A clear photo helps tell cyano from dinoflagellates or diatoms.

Call (215) 269-4930 Visit the store